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Solvents, resins, plasticizers, pigments, photoinitiators… Behind every bottle of nail polish lies a combination of chemical ingredients that varies depending on the type of polish, whether it's classic, plant based, water based or cured under a lamp. In recent years, several substances traditionally used to make nail polish have been banned in Europe because of their effects on human health. Others are still permitted but remain under close watch, as they may be sensitizing or irritating. So how can you tell whether a nail polish is healthy and safe? Here's everything you need to know to choose an endocrine disruptor free nail polish and avoid any unpleasant surprises.

In short: which nail polish is the healthiest?

👉 The healthiest nail polish is an endocrine disruptor free nail polish whose formula is also free from substances classified as CMR and monomers, and which dries in the open air and comes off without buffing or acetone. Plant based polishes most often meet these criteria, while offering staying power close to that of classic formulas.

👉 Gel polish calls for more caution: methacrylate monomers (HEMA and di-HEMA, banned in Europe in cosmetics sold to consumers) are among the most frequently reported contact allergens, and removing it weakens the nail.

👉 When choosing your polish, the INCI list printed on the packaging remains the most reliable tool, far more so than a clean or free from claim, whose definition varies from one brand to another.

Is nail polish harmful to your health?

No, nail polish is not dangerous to your health when it is used occasionally and bought through a regulated channel. However, some formulas contain substances that are allergenic, irritating or suspected of disrupting the endocrine system, and their impact depends on the type of polish and how often it is applied. Choosing a non toxic nail polish is the simplest way to limit this exposure.

The good news is that in Europe, the composition of cosmetics sold to consumers is strictly regulated. Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 excludes any ingredient that poses a risk to human health and expressly bans substances classified as carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic for reproduction (CMR). That's reassuring!

Nevertheless, the risk isn't zero, especially if you use products bought outside the EU, and exposure happens in two ways:

• The skin: if polish spills over, it comes into contact with the skin and its molecules can pass through the skin barrier. Some people may then develop a contact allergy or irritation on their fingers, which can spread to other parts of the body through touch. More generally, once absorbed, these molecules circulate in the body and can disrupt its metabolism.
• The airways: volatile solvents can be inhaled during application and drying, and can trigger asthma, headaches or breathing difficulties in sensitive people.

Which substances make a nail polish harmful?

Controversial ingredients fall into three families: endocrine disruptors and CMR substances, contact allergens, and irritants. They all serve a specific technical purpose, such as film flexibility, shine, adhesion or color stability, which explains why they have long been used in formulas.

Endocrine disruptors and CMR substances

These two families include the ingredients with the most worrying long term effects, in terms of hormonal function, cancer risk, genetic disorders or reproductive problems. They are the first substances an endocrine disruptor free nail polish should leave out.

Dibutyl phthalate (DBP) was long used as a plasticizer: it makes the polish film more flexible and stops it from chipping. Classified as toxic for reproduction, it is now banned in cosmetics sold in the European Union. Many manufacturers replaced it with triphenyl phosphate (TPHP). This plasticizer is in turn suspected of disrupting the endocrine system, and it will be banned from 2027.

Benzophenones (Benzophenone-1, Benzophenone-3) are UV filters that stop the shade from fading in the light. They too are suspected of acting as endocrine disruptors.

TPO (Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide) is a photoinitiator. It triggers the curing of gel polish under the lamp, and it is classified as toxic for reproduction. It has been banned in cosmetic products in Europe since September 2025. A bottle bought before that date may still contain it, so check the INCI list of any gel polish you already have at home.

Formaldehyde was used as a hardener to strengthen nails. It is classified as carcinogenic and is also a contact allergen. Although it is no longer used as such, its derivatives still appear in nail polish formulas.

Contact allergens

A contact allergen doesn't usually trigger a reaction the first time it is applied. The skin becomes sensitized through repeated exposure, then reacts every time it comes into contact with it again. Possible reactions include redness, itching or eczema around the nail. They can also appear on the eyelids, face or neck, areas you touch with your fingers.

Tosylamide/formaldehyde resin (Tosylamide/Formaldehyde Resin) is a resin that forms the film and provides shine and adhesion. It has long been one of the known allergens found in nail polish.

Rosin (Colophonium) is a resin derived from pine sap. It helps the polish grip the nail. It is a recognized contact allergen, a reminder that a naturally derived ingredient is not necessarily free of risk.

Methacrylate monomers (HEMA, Di-HEMA Trimethylhexyl Dicarbamate) are the basis of gel polish. They polymerize under a UV or LED lamp. Before curing, these liquid molecules easily penetrate the skin. The risk increases when the product spills onto the cuticles or when curing is incomplete, because the lamp isn't suitable or the exposure time is too short. They are now the most common allergens in nail treatments. Once an allergy has developed, it is lasting. In Europe, nail products containing these substances have been banned from sale to consumers since 2021, and their use is restricted to professionals under certain conditions.

Irritants

Toluene and xylene keep the polish liquid in the bottle. They then evaporate so the film can dry, and it's these vapors that cause problems. In a poorly ventilated room, they can irritate the airways and eyes, and cause headaches and dizziness. Repeated exposure carries the greatest risk, particularly for salon professionals. Toluene is also suspected of being toxic for reproduction.

Camphor is a plasticizer rather than a solvent, but it has similar irritant effects. It is also toxic if swallowed, so keep bottles that contain it out of the reach of children.

How can you tell whether a nail polish is healthy?

The INCI list (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) is mandatory on every cosmetic product sold in the EU. Ingredients are listed in descending order of concentration, then in any order below 1%. The names are written in English or Latin, so you can spot them whatever the language on the packaging.

Here are the substances to look out for and avoid in the INCI lists of your beauty products if you want a nail polish without harmful chemicals:

Claims such as 5 free, 9 free or 16 free have no regulatory definition: each brand sets its own list of exclusions. The number matters less than the substances actually left out, which you can compare with the table above. For an endocrine disruptor free nail polish, check first that DBP, TPHP and benzophenones are missing from the list.

The percentage of plant based ingredients shows the share that comes from plant materials such as sugar cane or cassava. It is neither an organic certification nor a guarantee of skin tolerance, and rosin is the perfect example.

Which type of nail polish is the healthiest?

For regular use, the safest nail polish is a plant based polish free from controversial substances: it offers the best balance between health, staying power and respect for the nail. Water based polish contains the fewest solvents but doesn't last as long, while gel polish has the most points of concern. Here's a quick overview of the advantages and points to watch for each type of polish:

Water based polish is well suited to children and people who are sensitive to solvent smells. Classic and LED plant based polishes are for anyone who wants a result close to classic polish or gel polish, with the added bonus of a non toxic nail polish formula containing fewer controversial ingredients.

Is gel polish the least healthy option?

Yes, traditional gel polish carries the most risks of all common nail polishes, for four reasons linked to its chemical composition and the way it is used:

• Methacrylates, as we've seen, are powerful allergens, especially when the product touches the skin or doesn't cure properly under the lamp. Sensitization is permanent and can complicate dental or orthopedic treatments that use acrylic materials. Fortunately, since 2021, gel polishes containing HEMA and DI-HEMA have been banned from sale to consumers in Europe, and their professional use is strictly regulated.
• TPO, a photoinitiator long used in gel polish formulas, is classified as toxic for reproduction. Regulation (EU) 2025/877 has banned it since September 1, 2025, with no grace period for selling off existing stock. Yet affected bottles are still circulating on resale platforms between individuals, which is why it's so important to buy from reliable sources.
• Curing lamps, including LED lamps, emit UVA. In the lab, researchers have observed damage to human cells exposed very frequently, although no cancer risk has been shown in users. Sunscreen or fingerless gloves help limit this exposure.
• Removal, finally, usually involves soaking the nails in acetone for around ten minutes and filing the surface. Both steps dry out and thin the nail plate, especially when one manicure follows another without a break.

Which nail polish is the least damaging for nails?

A polish that dries in the open air and comes off with a gentle remover without acetone is the one that will do the least damage to your nails. In fact, the damage comes more from repeated manicures and removal than from the polish itself. The more classic or gel polish manicures you have back to back, the more your nails are exposed to acetone. This product dissolves the lipids that hold the layers of keratin together. The result: the nail becomes dry and brittle, and starts to split. As for surface buffing before or after gel polish, it removes a thin layer every time. That's why it's essential to nourish the nail deeply, to stimulate keratin production and help the nail plate renew itself.

👉 The solution? Switch to plant based polish formulas, which avoid these drawbacks while matching the staying power and shine of classic polish and gel polish.

A beautiful polish that is kinder to your nails: the Manucurist approach

At Manucurist, we formulate our polishes to combine a professional finish with a composition that respects consumers' health. To do this, we make a point of banning risky molecules from our products, even if they are not yet prohibited by regulations. And wherever possible, we replace petrochemical ingredients with gentle alternatives derived from biomass.

Green™ nail polishes contain up to 83% plant based ingredients, derived in particular from cassava, corn, sugar cane and cotton. Their formula is free from DBP, toluene, formaldehyde, formaldehyde resin, camphor, TPHP, xylene, parabens and ingredients of animal origin. These polishes are easy to apply, dry in the open air without a UV or LED lamp, and last up to seven days. And they come off in one minute with a gentle remover without acetone. Ideal for a quick, simple manicure that keeps nails healthy.

For anyone who wants the lasting hold of gel polish without the risks that come with it, the Green Flash™ range offers a polish made with 84% plant based ingredients, guaranteed free from HEMA, TPO and other harmful substances. It cures under an LED lamp of no more than 36W, with a curing time of 5 to 10 minutes maximum per manicure, limiting UVA exposure. Green Flash™ comes off without acetone or buffing, using a suitable gentle remover, which avoids damaging the nail plate and lets you enjoy a beautiful manicure for up to 12 days.

Please note that an allergic reaction is still possible with plant ingredients. If you have a history of allergies, we strongly recommend comparing the INCI list with the results of your allergy tests.